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Marinated sweet soy sauce beef soup and mushrooms. Los Compadres is a very small — but elaborately decorated — Mexican restaurant in Ft. A utilitarian restaurant in a strip mall offers warm service and an extensive menu with dishes that mostly highlight tofu that’s made in-house, whether it’s soft, firm, or extra firm. In addition to tofu-based dishes, check out the bibimbap, pancakes, and japchae. Stir-fried shrimp with rice and vegetables and topped with an egg.
* All of our Soondubu comes with a side of marinated grilled pork
Buckwheat noodles with vegetables and spicy sauce. Also comes with a side of marinated pork. Buckwheat cold noodles with spicy sauce. Walking back to our car, we stop back in at the banchan store and made a couple purchases.
Kalguksu with Black Sesame and Mushrooms
Stir-fried kimchi with rice and vegetables and topped with an egg. Steamed pork with sweet and spicy radish kimchi and vegetables, ssamjang. The sauces are unusual, too, as is the giant blue toad mascot sitting near the door on a counter.
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But, no dice, and I tell that I'm not from around these parts and it gets me off the hook. We then drive a quick 13 minutes across the bridge (thankfully still no cones!) back to Manhattan. Fort Lee Koreatown is a world away, but much closer than it seems. Myung Dong Noodle House is a Korea-based chain known for serving a dish called kalguksu, a workaday and delicious soup loaded with knife-cut noodles. The Fort Lee outpost opened in 2013, and on this holy Sunday the place is packed with tables of families, in some instances three generations slurping up wheat noodles swirling around in chicken stock.
I've found that kalguksu broth is oftentimes clear and light, but this was quite the opposite. It was thick, with a hint of cornstarch. I threw in some forcefully funky napa cabbage kimchi to kick things up a bit and slurped away.
O’Jang Dong Naengmyun with Marinated Sliced Beef
Second, people are sitting on the floor of Masil House, a tradition still found throughout Korea, but less in the United States. The “cliffhanger”—a Film History 101 term referring to a moment of cinematic suspense? It originates from early scenes filmed along the nearby cliffs of the Palisades. But, like with the Brooklyn Dodgers four decades later, Southern California came a calling and Laemmle packed up his Bell & Howell Filmo and moved west.
Yookgaejang Kalguksu
A beef bone broth with spicy sauce, tofu, spam, sausages, pork, vegetables, rice cake, ramen, and a rice. This new barbecue spot in Fort Lee offers beef, pork, and seafood to its grill menu, which includes clams, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and lobster. Among specials, soojaebee jogae tang — clam soup with dumplings, is also available, along with haemool jjim — a soup with monkfish, octopus, clams, shrimp, and crab.
Masil specializes in soups and stews, the more rustic, stick-to-your-ribs side of Korean cooking that is sometimes skipped or overlooked for the more popular grilled dishes—known universally as Korean barbecue). Stir-fried black bean sauce with pork and vegetables on noodles. Buckwheat noodles with chilled dipping sauce.
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Beef Soondubu
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A beef bone soup with tofu, spam, sausage, pork meat, rice cake, vegetables, ramyeon, beans, and spicy sauce. Spicy beef bone soup with seafood, vegetables, egg, glass noodles. Homemade noodles with seafood and vegetables in a spicy beef bone soup.
Ricecakes with fishcakes and vegetables, hard boiled egg, gless noodle in spicy sauce. Korean fast-casual Kooksoo is named for feast noodles, offering a menu of beef kooksoo and jjamppong soups with seafood, chicken, or beef; fried dumplings; and bulgogi. The newest spot in Fort Lee follows locations in Texas. There’s often a wait at this family crowd-pleaser where they make their own noodles, but the menu goes well beyond them. Consider a pajeon, the o’jang dong naengmyun with marinated beef ($19.95), the signature kalguksu noodles, or grilled bulgogi. Mitsuwa is a giant Japanese shopping complex on the western shore of the Hudson River, with ample parking.
Stir-fried rice with vegetables with topped with an egg. Marinated beef with vegetables. One can only imagine how sleepy the Jersey towns on the other side of the Hudson River were before the George Washington Bridge was opened in 1931.
The woman points to her small but immaculately clean kitchen in the back and tells us how everything in the shop, some 30 or so different side dishes, condiments, and desserts, are made there. She presses a well-worn brochure into my hand showing photos of meticulous trays of a soy sauce and vegetable sweet potato noodle dish called japchae, and reveals that she can cater any event. She asks if I have a wedding or baby shower coming up.
There are standalone stores along a strip mall on one side, and a giant grocery store inside the main building, where you can browse Japanese groceries and those American groceries dear to Japanese. Our story begins on the bridge on Easter Sunday. There is no traffic (and no cones causing traffic). We take the first exit and soon find ourselves in front of Masil House, an exceptional restaurant that I've visited a few times before while writing the Koreatown cookbook, but haven't taken Dan to yet.
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